The Bespoke Process

A guide to commissioning custom jewellery or clothing from the studio.

A bespoke piece from Helen Steinberg isn't ordered from a catalogue. There are no pre-set designs, no dropdown menus of gemstone options, no standard sizing charts. Every commission starts as a conversation and ends as a one-of-a-kind object made specifically for you.

This page explains what to expect at each stage, typical timelines, and how pricing works.

Stage One: Consultation

Commissions begin with a 45-minute meeting — in person at the Toronto studio or via video call for clients elsewhere in Canada and internationally. Helen asks about:

• The occasion (engagement, anniversary, personal milestone, or no occasion at all)
• Your aesthetic preferences — favourite materials, colours, textures, and references from art, architecture, or nature
• How you wear jewellery or clothing day-to-day (active lifestyle, desk work, frequent travel)
• Budget range — this helps Helen recommend appropriate metals and stones without guesswork

There's no charge for the initial consultation. If you decide to proceed, a design deposit of $500 (credited toward the final price) secures your place in the schedule.

Stage Two: Design Development

Within two weeks of the deposit, Helen presents two to three initial concepts as hand-drawn sketches with material notes. For jewellery, she may also produce a wax model or 3D-printed prototype at scale so you can assess size and proportion on the hand or body.

This stage is iterative. Most clients go through three to four rounds of refinement before a design is finalised. Adjustments to proportion, stone selection, metal finish, or garment silhouette are all part of the process — there's no extra charge for revisions during this phase.

Stage Three: Material Sourcing

Once the design is approved, Helen sources materials. For gemstones, this means identifying specific stones that meet the design's requirements for colour, clarity, cut, and carat weight. She works with trusted dealers in Toronto, Antwerp, and Jaipur who provide full provenance documentation.

For clothing commissions, fabric is sourced from European deadstock houses or certified organic mills. Helen presents swatches for approval before cutting.

Material sourcing takes one to four weeks depending on rarity. Unusual gemstones (Paraiba tourmaline, Burmese sapphire, natural alexandrite) may require longer.

Stage Four: Fabrication

Jewellery is fabricated entirely by hand in the Toronto studio. Helen does not outsource setting, polishing, or finishing — every step from raw metal to completed piece happens under her direct control.

Clothing is cut and sewn in the studio as well, with occasional specialist work (hand-embroidery, custom buttons) completed by local artisans Helen has worked with for over a decade.

Fabrication typically takes four to eight weeks for jewellery and three to six weeks for clothing. Helen provides progress updates with photos at key milestones.

Stage Five: Fitting & Delivery

For jewellery, a final fitting ensures ring size, bracelet length, or necklace drop is exact. For clothing, a fitting appointment allows minor adjustments before the piece is finished.

Completed pieces are presented in a custom walnut box (jewellery) or linen garment bag (clothing) with a certificate of authenticity and care instructions. Shipping is insured and tracked for clients who cannot collect in person.

Pricing & Timelines

Every commission is different, but here are general ranges:

• Simple bands and earrings: $1,200 — $3,000 | 6–8 weeks
• Gemstone rings and pendants: $3,000 — $12,000 | 8–12 weeks
• Statement pieces and suites: $10,000+ | 12–16 weeks
• Clothing commissions: $800 — $3,500 | 4–8 weeks

These ranges include design, materials, fabrication, and presentation packaging. Rush timelines are occasionally possible for an additional 20% fee.

Start a Commission

Ready to begin? Email [email protected] with a brief description of what you're looking for, your timeline, and an approximate budget. Helen responds to all enquiries within two business days and will suggest a consultation time that works for your schedule.